CS144 140amp alternator upgrade for Toyota

[MasterYota]

Just waiting for parts to show up.

Ordered a CS144 140amp alternator from a Cadillac to replace my pooched 60amp stocker.  Stay tuned for the installation on my '91 Toyota pickup with a 3.0L V6...

[MasterYota]

Parts arrived today. Install should happen this week sometime.

[Britpart]

just curious Ray ... do have a dual battery setup in your Toy ? gb

[MasterYota]

Not yet, although I am slowly gathering parts for that upgrade as well...

[MasterYota]

The Alternator is under the hood - the full write-up will be posted when all the wiring is competed.

[MasterYota]

The installation is finished, and the new unit works flawlessly.  Here is how I did it.

New CS144 140amp alternator (Remy PN# 91408) $115.93 Cdn. from Rock Auto (Orig. fits 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood w/5.7L V8)
New Alternator Plug/pigtail (Airtex/Wells PN# 1P1067) $9.76 Cdn. from Rock Auto
150 amp fuse plus holder
14' of 1/0 welding cable at $1.67 p/ft      Chieftan Auto Parts (local) $60.00
6' of 4ga. welding cable at $1.27 p/ft  
Misc connectors, shrink tube...etc...

I started out by searching google and other sites for High output alternator upgrades, as my 60 amp stocker died and it was cost prohibitive to replace such a low output unit for the same price as upgrading to a unit that will allow me run the heater without the head lights dimming.
The most informative thread I found was this one

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/458156-hi-amp-alternator-3-0-v-6-a.html

as it dealt with the 3.0L V6.  It was much easier to find conversion articles for the 22re.  Aside from using a different alternator than the Power Master specified in the article, I followed the instructions to a "T" with only a few minor changes.

I'll admit, electrical isn't my strongest subject, but I managed to muddle my way through the install, the only error was in getting amperage greedy when I purchased my alternator.  The above article suggests using a CS130, 105 amp alternator from a GM vehicle, and the link sourced one from Power Master.  As Power Master is super expensive up here, I sourced my alternator, a new CS144 140 amp unit from Rock Auto for cheap.  The error I made is reflected in the two different models of Alternator, and I didn't realize that the CS144 is considerably larger than a CS130, and absolutely massive compared to the stock 60 amp Denso alternator that it was replacing.

Apparently size does matter...


For modification of the upper bracket I simply followed the instructions in the link above and removed about 0.125 or 3/16" from the backside of the front tang.  This allowed the alternator to move forward enough for the pulley(s) to line up.  The back of the mount needs to be shimmed about 0.375 or 3/8" to account for the mount on the CS144 being slightly narrower/shorter than the Denso.  In the link, washers were used as spacers/shims to make up the difference; I found it easier to just weld a nut in place at the back of the mount.  The welded nut makes installation much easier as well, as the top of the alternator is right under the distributor, with very little room to juggle washers with fat fingers...
I also had to contour the profile of the mounts a little to allow the CS144 to have sufficient movement to tighten the belt.  The link makes no mention of this, so it may be a one-off mod for the larger bodied alternator.



For the CS130, the lower adjusting bracket can be modded exactly as the link describes, by bending more offset into the arm and then lengthening it 2.5" between the adjuster slide and first bend as shown here:


For the CS144 that I used, the bracket must be bent the same way, but lengthened a total of 5" instead.  I found it was beneficial to put a slight curve in the adjuster to keep it from hitting the cooling fan on the pulley.  I had already modded the bracket to accept the 2.5" when I discovered it was too short.  I simply added another 2.5" rather than cut the whole works apart.  Only time will tell if vibration will induce weld failure on the bracket.  For now it seems quite sturdy, and the factory bracket is 1/4" thick material...


Here it is, installed; given the size difference, it fits very well in the area and is easy to install and remove.  I have eliminated the air box silencer's so I have extra room in that area.  Your installation may vary...


Here is the belt I ended up using, its approx. 4" longer than the factory belt.  The 3 rib belt works fine on the 5 rib pulley.


The wiring is quite simple, with only 3 connections needing to be made.  Follow the diagram, and you're install will be trouble free.  This diagram works for both the CS130 and the CS144.  The aftermarket plugs for the CS alternators appear to have varying wire colors, but the layout in the plug is always the same.  If your plug has differenct colors, match the wire locations on the diagram.



To get power from the Alternator to the battery (the factory alternator/battery wire isn't used) I used 1/0 gauge welding cable, with a 150 amp fuse, set close to the alternator to protect the system from a power spike/surge if the Alt. should fail.  The original battery wire was terminated and tucked back into the harness to prevent shorts.


As a final job, I replaced the small 10ga. engine ground with new 4ga. wire, and added another body ground of the same size, with both hooked directly to the battery.  I also installed new battery post connectors and cleaned up about 15 years worth of accessory wiring at the battery.  The truck is now charging at 14.4volts at idle and the lights no longer dim when the heater is turned on.  

[Britpart]

looks good Ray ... a clean installation .
well done .

[MasterYota]

Thank you...

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