New Toy

[CanadianCook]

New to the forum, just picked up a 1996 Toyota 4 Runner 4cyl, 5spd and e-locker (that doesn't work so far). Very happy with the machine so far looking forward to fixing it up.
Cheers
Travis

[MasterYota]

I mentioned this the other day, the E locker only works in low range, and it can be a bit ignorant to get it to engage. Hit the button and then drive slowly in a slalom pattern to get the rear tires to turn at different speeds. This will allow the sliding gear inside the diff to syncronize with the spider gears faster.

If that doesn't work, then gently (I can't stress GENTLY enough) check and probe the electrical connections at the differential. Its not uncommon for them to become brittle and corroded with age. Its also not uncommon for the electric gear housing that actuates the locker to become rotted out allowing crud into the mechanism. There are many tech write-ups on how to repair the unit, and if worse comes to worse, feel free to copy my cable conversion in the tech section...

Oh, and welcome to the site!

[CanadianCook]

Thanks, I tried the side to side turns and nothing happens the light just flashes. I think I will have to pull the actuator apart in the spring to cold to do it now.
Cheers
Travis

[CanadianCook]

Well peeled the diff lock motor off and it broke into pieces, so I made a temp cover out of plastic until i figure out what I am going to do.

[CanadianCook]

also looks like i might have to do some welding on the diff, the passenger side upper control arm mount looks like it was sorta repaired, looks like it rusted and peeled away from the axle tube. When welding this is there anything I should be looking for?

[MasterYota]

Dude, that sucks.  Pine Dale "might" have a housing/actuator...  Probably worth a call.  Unless you want to pull the third member out and convert it over to a cable setup like mine...  A lot more work, but also much cheaper.

The welding part is easy; the housing and related brackets are just sheet metal, so no concern there.  Just don't cook the bushings, and don't blow holes in the housing. And remember, the housing is full of oil....

[CanadianCook]

ok cool i didn't want to have to remove the axle to weld the mount back on. I might just buy the chillcat conversion kit.

[CanadianCook]

Well welded the upper control arm mount, so that should be good. Broke apart what was left of the diff lock motor, the shaft with the small drive gear was seized solid. To plug the hole in the diff I cleaned up the aluminum plug that the shaft goes though coated it in marine grease made a plate out of UMHW to hold the plug in. I can lock the rear diff by turning the plug and seized gear with a 8mm wrench with out taking the retaining plate off. A temp fix until I can pull the diff out and spend a couple days coping Ray's cable conversion.

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